Saturday, July 30, 2005

"La Luciole" (The Firefly)

11:00 p.m.

Camped at "La Luciole" (The Firefly) campground, Sainte-Luce-sur-Mer, Quebec. For hours, rock music has been blaring from somewhere in the woods across the road; a DJ spinning songs for some party. Now it has finally fallen silent.


After checking out this morning, we agreed; the motel in Quebec, at $179 was a rip-off. I wanted to return to the Bagel Cafe, but Jeff was anxious to get across the river and on with our ride. We went to a "Tim Horton's" on the south shore. I was a little disgruntled, not having my way. A storm coming in from the west. We headed east away from it.

The town of St-Jean-Port-Joli is very artsy. We stopped here to look around a bit. Spent some time browsing a gift shop full of local, and not so local, crafts (many from China, Africa, even the U.S.) A small farm advertised fresh raspberries for sale. Walked over and bought a basket (about $2). What a treat. I had to take a peak at the local chocolate shop, but, amazingly, left without a purchase.

In Riviere-du-Loup we stopped at a "St. Hubert’s" restaurant that Jeff has been to. The extremely popular chain specializes in family-style chicken dinners, and serves very good food at reasonable prices. This restaurant was doing one "helluva" business this afternoon, with a line beginning to form soon after we arrived.

The one Provincial Campground along this stretch of coastline, at Parc du Bic, was full. Once again, I felt we had waited too long to start looking. (This tendency has plagued me throughout my journey.) In Rimouski, we easily found the Visitors Center down by the waterfront. I was amazed they were open this late (7:00 p.m.) They directed us up the road a few miles to this campground. We covered about 150 miles today.

Setting up the tent tonight, my sleeping pad cover materialized. I had considered it lost weeks ago - in South Dakota!

Jeff and I took a walk down to the beach looking for an open cafe. Found only one, called the "Super Soir Cartier". We took a table and started off with beverages. Looking over the menu, their specialty is seafood, especially shellfish. That wasn't going to fly with Jeff. And the prices were steep. Stuck with drinks. Amused by the view into the kitchen. An attractive young woman was standing idly by, chatting with the cook, throwing loaves of bread at someone else (who I couldn't see - only the loaf coming back at her.) Of course, as a former restaurant manager, I'm appalled at the dangerous behavior, with deep fryers, grills and ovens all around. Still, it was pretty funny.

Great views of the constellations tonight, and a satellite or two passing overhead.

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