Friday, January 27, 2006


Up at 8:30, not having slept well. Maybe four hours’ rest

I went to the “Cyber Café” for five or six hours today. There, a tall fellow introduced himself: Steven Sohrakoff from Newport, Oregon. He's riding a KLR, on his way back to Oregon from Tierra del Fuego. He said he’d never go there again. "Cold and boring." Torres del Paine, he said was "like Disneyland"; Fitz Roy is a much better destination.

Upon closer "inspection", I found the busy "restaurant" across the street is in fact “Abuela Goye Chocolates”, one of two chocolate shops my server recommended last night (the other being “Mamucka”- sp?) Of course, I couldn't leave without a purchase.

Took a three-hour nap in the afternoon. Afterwards, I felt "drugged". (Any connection to that chocolate?)


Dinner at “A Los Bifes” tonight, another parrilla restaurant. Here, you receive a tiny cup of raspberry wine as a greeting.

Chose the vacio al asador, a kind of beef roast. But it's a stringy meat, not much to my liking. A great chimichuri salsa brings some life to it though. The vegetales a las brasas, grilled vegetables, were rather dried-out. Tried a 375ml bottle of “Trapiche” 2005 Malbec. (Young! A light simple wine, some strawberry fruit, but not much character. I suspect it’s this well-known winery's lower-tier product.) It was warm, so I asked the server to put it on ice “como Champagne”.

The drinking age is apparently 18 here (at least, that’s what the wine labels imply!)


I don't think I've ever seen as many hitch-hikers as in this region. It's a common and accepted mode of travel for teenagers, single women, families, backpackers. locals and foreigners alike. It must be fairly safe.


About 140 days since leaving Texas. That’s about how much time I have until Jessica’s graduation!

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